Written By Darcy Gresham
26/01/2025
Machu Picchu has long been heralded ‘the’ destination of Peru, and although it is undoubtably magnificent, its history is surpassed by what is diminutively referred to as ‘the second Machu Picchu’ – Choquequirao. Meaning ‘Cradle of Gold’, it may have been the final refuge of the Incas as they attempted to regroup power following the arrival of Spanish colonists. If ‘may’ is not enough to convince you, it must be remembered that we still do not have a definitive idea of the purpose of Machu Picchu – what tourists are regaled with upon arrival can depend entirely upon their guide. Where Machu Picchu may have been there is a myth that Manco Inca (15th Century Inca resistance Emperor) inhabited the site during the 40-year war against the Spanish.
When Hiram Bingham unveiled Machu Picchu to the Western world – Andean descendants of the Incas knew about it for decades, living and working on the land – he proclaimed it the last refugee of the Incas. However, Bingham’s initial conclusions went against this, and subsequent historians have seen his assertion as trying to aggrandise the finding. Later, Bingham did find It Vilcambamba, the legendary last city of the Incas. However, he was so disappointed in how it paled in comparison, he decided to ignore the clues and manipulate the evidence to portray Machu Picchu as the final strong hold of the civilisation. In his book, Lost City of the Incas, the classical, picturesque monument of Machu Picchu was heralded as the legendary refuge.
Had he found gold in the ‘cradle of gold’, it could have been a different story.
Vilcabamba was built after Machu Picchu to house the last Inca rulers after the Spanish invasion. Choquequirao is the entrance to the Vilcabamba Valley and acts as a gateway to the jungle, yet not far from the colonial capital of Cusco. The land was a vital location to many Inca Emperors and was inhabited throughout the Inca era. Embedded in the stone terraces are a parade of llamas, uncovered in 2005 and believed to be unique designs from the 15th century, illustrating the animals’ role in sacrifice. They face the central plaza – the location where such animals would have been offered – and some historians believed that they may have been a symbolic nod to the gods when such rituals were not possible. The site shows a progression of construction efforts, from simple stone houses to larger complex mazes and mummy niches. It is, in fact, larger than Machu Picchu, although much remains to be excavated. Like many Peruvian landmarks, it is home to terraces, and dozens of them, with many obscured by the hillsides and more believed to be buried under farmlands.
So why does it not achieve the same reputation as Machu Picchu? Bingham’s dismissal meant it was simply too late to the party. Machu Picchu’s location and the break in the jungle that exposes it amongst the peaks allowed it to become a tourist destination far earlier. Choquequirao has remained mostly untouched due to its inaccessibility in the Amazon rainforest, and buildings were not located until 1964, 53 years after Bingham’s jackpot. In reality, Choquequirao is far more challenging to reach; there is no convenient bus, and the walk is a four-day trek with camping. However, this is all part of its charm and remoteness, which creates a magical atmosphere.
In today’s world, Choquequirao represents a decision to be made about Peruvian history, or, more accurately, tourism. While financial backing has helped maintain and restore the citadel, some supporters are entwined in gold-thievery rumours, and there is still much to be discovered. With Machu Picchu recently introducing more limits to the numbers of tourists, the impact of visitors on the ruins and preservation is a high topic of conversation. A cable car system to make Choquequirao more accessible seems to be the main point of debate, but yet again, this brings into question the impact on both people and infrastructure. When part of the mystique of the site is rooted in its peace amongst the clouds, the balance between the income of tourism and its wider implications is a tricky one to toe.
Bibliography
National Geographic, “These remote Inca ruins rival Machu Picchu,” October 31, 2022.
History Hit, “Choquequirao – History and Facts,” November 24, 2020.
Intrepid Travel, “Choquequirao: Peru’s Real ‘Lost City,’” August 29, 2018.
Heritage Daily, “Choquequirao – Cradle of Gold,” May 14, 2020.
Featured Image Credit: https://www.peru.travel/en/attractions/choquequirao.
Retrospect Journal 